For Thought: Diversification of Beauty

Have we grown accustomed to the narcissistic idealism's of the fashion industry, where perceptions of the ‘perfect body’ is defined on the catwalk by soaring super-thin models? With an evolving appreciation for diversity and realistic ethics within fashion, there is an emergence of a global awareness for diversity and a requirement in a market for everyone. As France passes a controversial bill on the ban of super-skinny models and Tokyo fashion week features disabled models on their catwalks, they join the stand for equality and a worldwide change in high fashion.

Tokyo Fashion Week saw models in wheelchairs, amputees and Paralympic athletes take the catwalk for designer TakafumiTsuruta’s label Tenbolast month.Tsurutastates that his designs are for all people, including those with disabilities. He strives to design for audiences of all ability in mind and used closures such as magnetic buttons so that wearers are able to take their clothes off and on without difficulty. Taking the stance of using disabled models, Takafumi’s message was clear in stating his perception on how the fashion industry should show more variety and be more widely accessible to those off all capabilities.

Following Tokyo, the world’s leading fashion capital, Paris, backed a malnourished model ban in a further attempt to tackle Anorexia in France. They also show theirsupport to the movement of the fashion industry being for everyone, starting on the catwalk. The French government passed the law that models must be healthy and will require medical assessment to be hired. Hiring dangerously thin and undernourished models will be a criminal offence, showing the seriousness of the body dysmorphic message being sent out by the fashion media. 

A global battle for a realistic fashion industry, it is evident that there’s still a fight for diversification in fashion, through designers, campaigns and even new laws being passed. All in an effort to create fashion with no identity; no race, no size and no ability.

A Diamond in the Ruff - Maya Magal

 

Since its launch in 2013, Hatton Garden jeweller Maya Magal has quietly earned herself a loyal celebrity following, including stars Nicole Sherzinger, Jourdan Dunn, Rita Ora and Jessie J. Now in her fourth season, Magal is proudly introducing her new spring jewellery collection - 'Hidden,' which consists of stunning handcrafted silver and gold bracelets, necklaces and rings.

British born Magal, who graduated from the Chelsea College of Art in London with a Textile Design degree, had worked at All Saints, Joseph and Abercrombie and Fitch before beginning her own jewellery line. Now, not only is her self titled line available at several  websites including Wolf & Badger, Not On The High Street and FAO but also internationally in a number of countries such as the Netherlands, Spain, China and Taiwan. Magal is also incredibly busy during fashion weeks, with an exclusive spot at London, Milan and Paris; bringing her striking designs to her many customers who live further a field.

From her delicate stacked silver rings to the exquisite rose gold necklaces, Magal's jewellery is modern and simple with an emphasis on contemporary shapes. Her use of intertwined leather and precious jewels including diamonds and black gems are luxurious and beautiful; perfect for either day or night. What’s more, Magal’s pieces are even more alluring with their reasonable price tags, which start at £25. But if you wanted to invest in a more expensive piece, you could easily bag yourself a pair of lovely gold feathered earrings for only £145, a silver ear cuff for £40 or one of her famous Polygon rose gold bangles for an attractive £120.

Now with a flourishing business under her belt and increasing press attention from the likes of Harpers Bazaar, Grazia and Marie Claire to name just some, Magal is definitely one to watch in the future…

Shop the collection at http://www.mayamagal.co.uk/

For Thought: The Digi-Age of Shopping

As the world progressively shifts into the digital-age where as consumers we are able to complete various day-to-day tasks via smartphones, tablets and laptops, we recognise the growing movement of online shopping. With successful online fashion retailers such as Asos, Boohoo and many more on the upsurge, we are exposed to the digital opportunities available across the web.

Bombarding our emails and hovering in our sidebars; social media has been a major factor and a huge influence on the digital habits of the new-age online shopper. With special offers, unfolding of sales and events being advertised through Twitter, Facebook and even Instagram it is merely impossible to avoid these e-retailers and their tactical marketing strategies without making it feel forced upon the consumer. Not to mention the increase of fashion bloggers that are sponsored by these brands, giving quick and easy access links items of clothing and accessories as well as exclusive discount codes.

In addition to being so heavily advertised across the web, e-commerce has the power over shop-to-shop retailing in terms of accessibility. Customers have the capability of shopping for what they want and when they want without any limitations on time or day; a shop that never closes, a benefit for the consumer with an outcome of gain to the retailer.

The now-easy to navigate pages allow instant access to browse, with available videos and pictures for the more visual digital-age consumer without the prolonged shop try-on. As well as next-day shipping to their doorstep simply a click away. Even transactions have become more simplified with the enabling of online accounts saving bank card details allowing for prompt payment on the go. 

With online-shopping accelerating in popularity and becoming more of an enjoyable retail experience for customers, the concept of high-street shopping is evolving solely into a social space. As e-commerce takes over in the cybernetic era it is hard to say whether the high-street risks falling behind.

Balmain Descend Upon Mayfair

On the 16th March, French label Balmain launched their first London flagship store in Mayfair’s South Audley Street. Yet Balmain is just one in a long list of designer brands who are choosing the prestigious ‘Luxury Quarter,’ situated in London’s Mayfair, to open their flagship stores, making the W1 postcode one of the most sought after locations in the world.

Guests such as Jourdan Dunn, Poppy Delevingne and Lily Donaldson partied the night away at the famous Annabels club in Mayfair to celebrate Balmain's foray onto British soil. Designer Olivier Rousteing revealed in an interview with British Vogue why the luxury brand chose London above other locations to expand their business. “We have always had a very loyal clientele so it all came very naturally,” Rousteing explains. "South Audley Street is definitely a new shopping destination in the city and Balmain is very happy to be one of the first houses to settle there." And with the help of architect and designer, Joseph Dirand the new flagship store has a pristine monochromatic interior and elegant white décor with floor length mirrors and luxurious sofas; appealing to their international customers.

The interior of the new Balmain boutique

Long has the wealthy Mayfair/Knightsbridge area been home to expensive brands such as Louis Vuitton, Ralph Lauren and Burberry as well as the wealthy clientele who shop in these stores. But with the rise of the property market in the capital and the influx of foreign investment, Mayfair is now the most prestigious and exclusive location for designers to set up shop.

In September 2014, Victoria Beckham opened her first store in Dover Street, sitting comfortably next to luxury shoe giant Jimmy Choo and opposite avant-garde department store Dover Street Market. London Fashion Week favourite Christopher Kane will launch his official  first stand along store in Mount Street in mid March 2015, designed by the acclaimed architect John Pawson, whose work includes the minimal St Mortitz church in Germany. While in the summer of 2014, Karl Lagerfeld was present at the opening of the new stylish Fendi store in Old Bond Street, with guests including models Cara Delevingne and Naomi Campbell. 

Recently, Parisian fashion house Hermes launched their revamped New Bond Street store, with a fully refurbished interior and a tasteful new floor dedicated to menswear. What’s not to love about the most exclusive location in town?

For Thought: We Are United

As Selfridges prepare this month to blur boundaries with their upcoming gender-neutral pop-up campaign, we are left to question whether society will no longer conform to the distinctivedifferences of gender accepted fashion conventions. The eight week retail experience: ‘Agender’, will feature clothes and accessories without any gender identity or specification, where women and men’s shopping and tastes will merge.

As we look back on the 80’s where fashion icons such as Grace Jones and David Bowie challenged social perceptions, the media were compelled to openly discuss the then-taboo subject of gender-bending following Jones and Bowies androgynous styles. Their aim: to shock and demonstrate a possibility of masculine and feminine becoming undivided. 

As fashion figures they created a world where individuality and fashion forward thinking could become accepted and even today, encouraging Selfridges intentions of creating a space ‘without any limitations or stereotypes.’ A somewhat expression of an emerging freedom in acknowledging the cultural shift of societies progressive attitudes toward gender. 

 

With well-known brands on the forefront and supporting the ‘Agender’ campaign such as Bodymap, Comme Des Garcons (ironically meaning; ‘like the boys’), Meadham Kirchoffand Gareth Pugh. As well as more established unisex labels: KTZ, BoyLondon and Trapstar who all have a well-known celebrity following including Rihana, A$AP Rocky and Kanye West. These brands amongst others will be sold alongside a display of photography, film, music and design pieces across three gender-less floors in a design collaboration with creative designer Faye Toogood.

The concept space will explore the inter-play between masculine and feminine, questioning the idea of gender and gender differences. As Selfridges experiments with perception on society’s norms, could ‘Agender’ be a catalyst for cultural changes in the fashion and retail industry?

Watch the exclusive Agender short film by Selfridges:

http://www.selfridges.com/content/agender-film/?cm_re=Homepage-_-Slide1-_-AgenderCampaign

Undercover Fall 2015

There is a strong possibility you have probably never heard of Japanese designer Jun Takahashi or his label, aptly named Undercover. In fact Takahashi and his fashion brand, which has been showing biannually at Paris Fashion Week since 2002, ironically do camouflage into the background when competing against Paris heavyweights such as Chanel, Balenciaga and Dior. Yet, for Undercover’s fall 2015 collection, Takahashi firmly re-emerged as a designer to be taken quite seriously.

Mixing the art work of 18^th century painter Michael Borremans and expert, clean cut tailoring, this collection was powerful in its message and elegant with its minimal style. Models wore clear plastic face masks, forcing their faces into a painful smile – a hint perhaps at the perceived view of the fashion industry and our quest for eternal beauty- while they walked, hands in pockets, down the runway to Johnny Cash’s hit ‘Hurt.’

There was a real emphasis on tailoring and the classic ‘Le smoking’ suit, with clinical white trousers, peplum silk tops and single breasted coats. Silhouettes were slouchy and conservative, with yards of fabric elegantly draped across shoulders and around garments while Takahashi explored the idea of ‘deconstruction’ through his ripped and manipulated coats which looked as though they had been spattered with pieces of broken glass. As is not uncommon with Japanese designers, colours were subdued and limited – beige, ash grey, navy, tan and black were the only uses of colour on display. Yet the romantic work of artist Borreman provided enough bursts of subtle colour and intrigue on jersey dresses and roll neck tops.

Accessories also played a part in this Undercover collection. From the black chain necklaces and large circle stud earrings to the small plexiglass clutch bags, there was a real sense of understated Parisian effortlessness with a satirical twist – Takahashi’s hidden messages of pain and suffering within the world today.

Introducing 'The Great Race...'

Through looking at the different styles of Eastern and Western culture, we bring you 'The Great Race' based on the traditional Chinese New Year story. 2015 is the Year of the Ram, symbolizing beauty, gentleness and a loyal hard working aesthetic. This photo-shoot brings all these elements together but with a more modern twist as we look ahead to the upcoming 'China: Through the Looking Glass' exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Enjoy...